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9 ATSAUKSMES

Insider: Andris Kronbergs

Nepieciešamība pēc horizonta

Esmu dzimis mellužnieks, viens no tiem vecajiem jūrmalniekiem. 19. gadsimta beigu gados mans vecvectēvs no Majoru muižkunga iegādājās paprāvu zemes gabalu, ko pēcāk izdalīja saviem bērniem. Tālab arī vēl tagad mani radi dzīvo turpat blakus vienā kvartālā – teritorijā līdzās dzelzceļam, septiņu minūšu gājiena attālumā no jūras. Melluži bija vienkāršo ļaužu vieta, kur mājas būvēja salīdzinoši nelielas. Šeit cilvēki, kā jau tas raksturīgi Mellužos, nodarbojās ar zemeņu audzēšanu un zvejniecību. Mani senči piekopa abus rūpalus. Vecāki ļaudis stāsta, ka mana vecmāmiņa Matilde bijusi tik centīga, ka zemeņu dobē ar dibenu gaisā atradusies jau četros no rīta. Zvejnieki, kas tajā laikā devušies reņģu zvejā, tad griezušies apkārt un gājuši vien mājās kādu šņabīti iedzert, vīru lietas pārrunāt, jo esot tā: ja no rīta nākas satikt sievieti, tad nav vērts laivu jūrā dzīt – neko nevarēšot noķert. Trešais rūpals mellužniekiem bija vasarnieku izmitināšana. Paši saimnieki vasarās uzlīda dzīvot bēniņistabās, kamēr viņu mājās apmetās gan rīdzinieki, gan atpūtnieki no citurienes. Atceros, ka 60., 70. gados mūsu mājās regulāri dzīvoja viena un tā pati ģimene no Taškentas. Viņi mūsu ģimenei bija kļuvuši jau gluži tuvi cilvēki. Vienā istabiņā izmitinājām arī maskaviešus. Tolaik viņi bija jāpieraksta mājas grāmatā un bija jānomaksā nodoklis. Tā vietējie iztika gan cara laikā, gan pirms Pirmā un arī pēc Otrā pasaules kara. Vasarnieki šurp devās labprāt – gāja peldēties, sauļoties, dzēra mellužnieku sarūpēto pienu, ēda zemenes un zivis. Šodienas Mellužu vide ir visai spēcīgi mainījusies. Daļa vēsturisko namu ir pārbūvēti, daļa atjaunoti atbilstoši mūsdienu lietojumam, lielie zemes gabali ir piepildīti ar jaunām ēkām, un rajona apbūves blīvums daudzkārt palielinājies. Vecos veikaliņus – miltu bodi, petrolejas bodi, veikalus ar kodolīgajiem nosaukumiem „Piens”, „Milti”, kas 50., 60. gados šur tur uz ielu stūriem bija saglabājušies vēl no ulmaņlaikiem, – tagad nomainījušas jaunas institūcijas. Viena no interesantākajām parādībām „Piparbode” tirgošanos pirms vairāk nekā divdesmit gadiem aizsāka privātmājas pirmajā stāvā. Soli pa solim veikaliņš dzīvojamā istabā pārauga par pašapkalpošanās minimārketu, kurā iespējams nopirkt gandrīz visu, kas nepieciešams, – no pārtikas līdz pat saimniecībā noderīgām lietām. Blakus tika atvērta arī kafejnīca / bistro „Gliemežnīca”, savukārt otrajā stāvā neliela viesnīciņa Alba Hotel (Dārzu iela 9, albahoteljurmala.lv). Šis ir tāds naivs un provinciāls, bet labs piemērs, kā dabiski attīstās jaunā Jūrmala. Agrāk vietējiem bija smagi jāstrādā, lai baltajā smiltī izaudzētu ogu ražu un nodrošinātu labu nozveju; jūras malai kā vietai, kur atpūsties, laika neatlika. Savukārt mūsdienu jūrmalnieks ir pasācis uz jūru iet atpūsties. Man personīgi ir nepārvarama nepieciešamība pēc šī horizonta. Jūra ir suģestējoša. Tās tuvums nomierina un atsvaidzina. Agros rītos, kad cilvēku pludmalē tikpat kā nav, ir brīnišķīgi vērot saullēktu. Starp citu, Mellužos tikpat labi kā saules lēktu austrumos, var redzēt arī saules rietu rietumos. Līcī vietā no vietas tas atšķiras, piemēram, Kaltenē saule riet aiz meža un lec jūrā, Ķurmjragā – lec aiz meža, bet skaisti noriet jūrā. Interesanti ir vērot arī liedaga mainību. Mūsu paisumi un bēgumi, protams, nav tik izteikti kā Atlantijas okeāna piekrastē, taču tik un tā ir iespējams pamanīt, kā jūras robeža staigā šurpu turpu par vismaz pieciem, desmit metriem. Mainās arī priekškāpa – tā aug un pazūd. Kad lielu vēju nav, smiltis saķeras smilgu audzēs un priekškāpa aug augstumā, līdz pie lielāka vētras uzbrukuma tā tiek aizskalota. Pēc lieliem vējiem jūras malā var pamanīt izskalotu arī atsevišķu, specifisku substanci – tādus kā gružus, ko veido mazi kociņi. Tajos var atrast dzintarus. Ar ļoti sīkiem, taču pielasītas man ir pāris krūzītes. Savukārt pavasaros Lielupe jūrā sanes meldrus, kas, ledum ejot, izrauti no krasta. Tad jūra tos izskalo liedagā, un upes meldri, izmetuši tādu kā līkumu, atkal atgriežas uz sauszemes. Savulaik pie Lielupes bija liela pļava ar skaistiem, nekoptiem zālieniem. Tur auga savvaļas neļķes un citas pļavu puķes. Līgo dienā mellužnieki devās uz pļavu tās plūkt, kā arī plēst smaržīgās kalmes, ar ko pa stilbiem iepērt meitas, kuras tika ķerstītas Jāņu nakts ugunīs liesmojošajā liedagā. Liedags ir brīnišķīgs visos gadalaikos. Dzeltenbalts ar rudenī sarkano kārklu līniju un zaļo mežu – tas ir īpaši skaists. Starp citu, kārkli Jūrmalā stādīti ar nolūku – lai aizturētu vētras nestu ūdeņu postījumus. Tāpat arī priedes. Šī ir nesabojāta un unikāla vērtība, ko mums rūpīgi jāpieskata un jācenšas neaizbūvēt ar pludmales labiekārtošanā šķietami nepieciešamām konstrukcijām.

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